Such days are boring.

Sometimes it rains all day and we're stuck inside. Such days are boring.

A New Tailored Coat

Wow, it's really been a long time since the last post. We took a break from China to visit home for the Christmas holidays and after that we kind of spent some time getting readjusted to China life. Now things are clicking again and a conversation with friends recently reminded me that I need to post something to keep things fresh....so here you go...here's something...to keep things fresh.

Merry belated Christmas everyone!

I've been wanting to go have a sport coat tailored ever since Shayne had some maternity dresses made in Shanghai. I got some references for a good place in Suzhou and made it happen. Mr. Gu is a tailor in Suzhou New District and he has a card in the Expat Association's taxi card pack. His shop is located very near the Yushan Lu stop on subway line one and that might be the quickest way to get there from SIP. He seems to be liked by the expat community because he speaks pretty good English.

If you go there, it's best to know what you want - and specifics are important. Knowing I wanted a sport coat wasn't enough. You've got to know specifics such as the style, the fit, the color, the pocket and lapel style...do a little research to make the process smooth. The customer service was a bit rushed brief so it helped a lot to bring in this picture and say "I want this but not plaid."

Mr. Gu took a look at my picture and said "what about the back?" I guess it's best to also know about the back, we discussed a little and decided on one slit and I assume he knows enough to fill in the blanks. After looking at the picture, we had to pick a fabric and I found a navy blue I liked in 100% wool. Then he took my measurements and said "500RMB, 200 now and the rest in 10 days when you pick up."



I went back after ten days and tried on my new coat. A very good slim fitting jacket, exactly like I wanted. And for around $80 it is hard to complain about being rushed through the first visit. It certainly beats driving all the way to Shanghai to work with a tailor I pick out randomly. I might go back and get one in dark grey...or maybe a full suit.

Sink Swimming She Loves It

 Not long after MJ was born, Clif's coworker also had a baby. He was sharing some pictures, when Clif noticed something odd: the baby went swimming immediately after birth...and not the normal grunge rock album cover style of infant swimming. When asked about it, the coworker explained they go every week and it's good exercise for the baby.

Update: Buoyancy helps reduce the amount of weight suspended from the baby's neck - like how you feel weightless while swimming under water. It is a specially designed inner-tube and it mostly just keeps the baby upright with head above water.

About the same time, Shayne had a reunion with all her classmates from the prenatal classes. They all brought new babies to show off and brag. The teacher asked if any had tried the Chinese swimming yet. Nobody had...

Saturday we put on our brave faces and did it. We went to the store, walked up to the worker, made the international hand signal for "swimming" and pointed at the baby. Before we could blink, MJ was naked with an inner-tube around her neck and swimming circles in a specially built sink! Check out the video:


I know it looks bizarre, and maybe a little cruel. She never cried, screamed or showed signs of anguish. If anything, she totally loved it. She kicked around for about 10 to 15 minutes, which is about how long she's willing to do anything. Then we dressed her up and paid the bill.

I think we'll go back for more, maybe even see if this can be done in our bath tube.

This Tea Comes with Frills

There are certain perks to living in China, and having access to abundant amounts of delicious green tea is one of them. Loose leaf tea is common, and the most fun to brew. I love to spend a small amount of my work day watching tea brew. The leaves start out dry and then expand as they rehydrate. Small residual currents in the water can make watching tea brew about as interesting as a lava lamp.

 It only requires access to hot water and some way to filter the leaves off the finished product. In my sample video, I've used a specialized tea mug that comes with a metal screen (you'll see at the end how well it doesn't work) but other contraptions such as french presses can work too. Some of the professionals use their teeth to strain out the leaves, and chew the remains like whole leaf tobacco.


I'm not expert enough to pick out a good tea until it's been brewed (and poured in my mouth) and I couldn't name any specific type. The term "green tea" seems to refer to any tea that is green. Some has huge broad leaves, other teas have small slender leaves and I've seen some that include flowers or other frills. There are certain types from certain regions of China that are "famous" and I'm trying to learn by sampling as many as possible and trying to remember the Chinese characters for each.

Regardless of the tea origin, one important factor is to not over steep the tea. Leaving it too long or using too little water results in bitterness. The batch I made for this video was deliciously brewed at ten minutes. It is unlike anything you'll get in a bag from Lipton.

A taste for good tea is one of the many small effects China will have on my life. Will I be disappointed after returning to the states? Or will I find a local source for "broad leaf green tea with frills?" I've already got the mug...

A Farmer and Some Moon Cakes

This past Saturday Clif's work hosted family day.  There were tractors, free dinner* and games for the kiddies so we loaded up our kiddo and headed out. 

First stop was the door prize table. MJ scored a truck that looked suspiciously like a character from the movie Cars. Copyright infringement???  Maybe they got a bargain at the local copy market?

Clif and I got a bag of goodies. I taste tested most of the items.
Here is a quick review:
Puppet: Fishy flavored Styrofoam.
Mystery Candy: It looked liked chocolate covered carmel or toffee on the packaging. It was spit out.
Kitty Sticks: Prawn flavored mini-bread sticks.  Not too bad. 
USA Green "Pers": Dried and/or baked and seasoned peas, probably the best thing I tasted, still not good.

I chose not to try the pork-in-a-bag or the chocolate sucker. China loves to put meat in bags, but for some reason I have no desire to eat meat that has been vacuum sealed with a cartoon pig on the label.

We also got Moon Cakes in honor of Mid-Autumn festival coming up in October.  If you want to learn more about it you can go here: Mid-Autumn Festival or Moon Festival
Moon cakes are basically small round cakes with a filling.  I have been told the filling varies depending on where you are in China.  Traditional to this area is sweetened red bean paste. 

Fancy packaging is popular here.  China does not skimp on good quality boxes for packaging.

 

 

 

 

 

Clif says, "Tastes like Fig Newton." And yes, Clif did eat something with bean in it!

MJ was welcomed with celebrity status.  Clif's co-workers have been earger to meet MJ.  Something about a Western baby draws a crowd.  What is the first thing they say you may be thinking?
1. How old is she? (Side note: Many Chinese babies do not leave the house for a month or longer.)
2. Who is taking care of your wife? (Side side note: Most Chinese have a family member move in with them to take care of the baby while the wife recovers for the first month and then continues to care for the child when the wife returns to work.  Clif has even been scolded for not hiring someone to take care of me)

The night's main attraction was skits put on by each of the groups in Clif's building.

As the night progress I noticed Clif was about the only ISE who got roped into performing.  Even though he failed to attend most of the practices, I would say he made a pretty good farmer, even if his head was a smidge too big for his hat.

MJ Clif and I were getting tired so we ended the night with a family photo-op. 

*We opted for the Western option, spaghetti with mashed potatoes, which is better than the typical western food items Clif has encounter at work i.e. cake wrapped in bread.

Lunch - You Get What You Pay For

I'm told I am lucky, I get choices for lunch. Not "the same old slop." Three choices actually: A, B and C:

• Option A is called the rice option. It consists of 4-5 small platters and a bowl of rice. The platters contain different meats and vegetables, which varies each day.
• Option B is the noodle choice, and comes with a bowl of noodles and 1-2 small plates. Usually the platters are from the A option. Sometimes instead of noodles, they serve dumplings which is always a safe choice.
• Option C is the western/vegetarian choice. It's western because it comes with a Chinese version of western food - usually bread based. I had a corn sandwich recently, drizzled in syrup. Once it was purple cake wrapped in bread.

In general the food isn't very good, even by the standards of my Chinese coworkers. A former expat once said "The only good thing is it's free." Free food at work is an expectation in the Chinese culture; I think we get what we pay for. This picture below shows a fairly typical A choice, I eat stuff like this every day. I'll break it down so you can have a glimpse into my daily life.

In the top left corner is a plate containing tofu and some kind of fibrous vegetable like celery but round and hollow. Some of the veggies resemble weeds, this is one like that. It was served in a spicy sauce - too spicy for my western tongue. They used to serve 5 plates, but lately they've been combining two into one. That annoys me greatly.

Bottom left is a beef dish they serve often, sometimes with potatoes. It's quite delicious but some days the meat is bony. The sauce tastes a like barbeque but is runny and does a great job sprucing up the white rice.

Middle top is some kind of cucumber/zucchini/egg plant/squash...I'm not sure which. It was cooked down to a mush and served in a sweet sauce.  One bite was enough, food texture is important to me and this felt like it had been digested twice but the taste wasn't terrible.

Middle bottom was a new one - his was the first time I tried this dish. There was some debate among coworks about it being pork or chicken. I think it was processed chicken, molded onto a left-over drumstick bone and puffed up with air. It was heavily spiced and felt like a boiled sponge. Barf.

The bowl on the bottom right contains rice and desert. The rice is always welcome because it fills the space all the other food would if I ate it. I like to pour some sauce on the rice, but not too much because, if it is slick, chopsticks won't pick it up. The desert is a dough ball stuffed with a dark goo and rolled in sesame seeds...not sweet like candy or cake, but sweet. Sometimes they serve flat bread or a bun instead of this dough ball.

In the top right is a peach juice box and green (unripened) orange. They always offer a juice, soda or yoghurt but the white boxes are the best. The fruit selection varies by the day and generally people won't eat it without washing or peeling it first. On this day everyone was amazed I'd never eaten a green orange. "Don't they have that in the states?"

And I do it all with chopsticks. They'll offer a fork but laugh about it when I accept. I came to China with a basic chopstick skill set. I've since gotten pretty good....for an American. It is still impossible for me to eat as fast as my coworkers, but they're polite and wait for me to finish stop eating.

Squeeze From the Bottom

Life in China is full of quirky little things that we find fun.  For example, we buy ketchup in a tube - like toothpaste.

We choose the tube not only because it is the cheapest form of ketchup. It's also fun to squeeze out the last drop.

White Wine, a Confusing Case in Point

In our home countries, we are constantly absorbing information. Our brains piece all of it together into life perspectives. In this foreign land, all those bits of data are mostly unintelligible. Our TV makes sound, people say things and billboards have pictures but the foreign language doesn't compute. The result is a constant state of slight confusion. If you think you fully understand...just wait a minute or two.

白酒 (Báijiǔ) translates to "white wine." This commonly accepted translation is used very often. Sounds simple right? Wait a minute or two...

Looks delicious. Right?

A dinner host may ask your feelings about white wine. You might say it's very good...in moderation of course. Then he'll buy a full bottle and pour your glass full...at which point you've successfully cleared up some translational confusion. If he says "gan bei," you better sit your ass down - it's going to be a long night.

"I've made a huge mistake."

"White wine" is a dirty lie and the sooner you know, the better. A proper translation would be: "A hint of delicious. Followed by a deeply radiant burn. Followed by assistance getting your key in the front door."

The Little Place We Call Home

I have had some requests for a picture tour of the apartment.  So, here we go! Of course, all pictures were taken after my helper cleaned.  I myself am not so great at keeping the place clean and wouldn't want to post that evidence for the world to see.

Our complex has many different floor plans.  Clif and I are in one of the smaller units, but it is actually similar in size to our house in the States, minus the basement.  I was never a fan of apartment living, so I am happy to only have one other apartment on the floor and it is currently empty.  We rented a furnished apartment and the only furniture we brought with us is what you will see in the nursery.  I am not crazy about the decor/furniture, but for our short-term assignment I can't complain. Alright, let's get this started....

Since it is not typical to wear your shoes in the house, many apartments have some sort of shoe storage.  We requested a shoe cabinet and got a rather large one.  I was leery of leaving our shoes in the hall at first, but so far they have all remained in their place!

Living Room:
This picture was taken after our Ayi left.  She always displays our pillows neatly! Thankfully the retro purple chair has found a new home hiding in our bedroom and been replaced by the cozy recliner.  Mr. Wang had to help Clif bring the chair up and was quite intrigued with the puffiness.  The apartment is also outfitted with heated floors.  At first I didn't think I would care one way or the other, but in reality it is quite fantastic.   

Still in the living room.  While it appears I have filled the cabinet with my shopping habits, you can see I still have an entire shelf that remains empty. 

 

Front Balcony

Our balcony has been covered in decking, which is a nice touch.  I neglected to clean it for months, however our Ayi has returned it to its original glory.  Thank you Xaio Ping! You can also see the flower I wasn't able to keep alive.  Both Clif and Xaio Ping have told me I watered them too much.  Clif was embarrassed by them and moved them away from the edge where passer-byres could see them in their sad state.  You can also see Clif's fold-able bike. Yep, it folds up. The only thing you can't see is the lake.  Since we are only on the second floor, we did not get one of the nice lake views.  

 

Dining Room

Across from the living room is the dining room.  We have a rather large table which seemed like a good idea for entertaining.  Though we have been here for nearly four months and have entertained only once.  

Kitchen

The kitchen is connected to the dining room.  There are glass doors that can be closed as there are no air vents in kitchens or bathrooms to provide air or heat.  I haven't found this to be a problem.  The only thing I miss is a dishwasher.  Apartments larger than ours have them.  We do have a sanitizer drawer.  Never been used. They could have made better use of the space with a small dishwasher.  On the counter you see our drinking water.  Faucet water is not safe to drink.

Utility Balcony

This balcony is off the kitchen.  You can see our washer, dryer, and utility sink.  While I am very thankful to have both a washer and dryer, they have the smallest capacity known to man.  A dryer is a bit of a luxury as most Chinese just hang their clothes out to dry.  I can't help but think they just get dirty that way with the smog and copious amounts of dust that quickly accumulates on the balcony.  Out here is also the air conditioner, water heater, gas line, and such.



Office: While this isn't advertised as an office, we requested office furniture to be put in there.  Technically, it is a storage room, but this is where Clif conducts his night meetings in the most uncomfortable chair. Last week I caught him squatting in the chair in the fashion of what we like call the "Chinese leisure position" (you can find a previous post if you are curious).  He also has a gorgeous view of the utility balcony.

 

Master Bedroom

Seeing as how I prefer not to share blankets, Clif and I have an array of blankets and pillows.  I also typically do not make the bed.  However, my Ayi attempts to make it look presentable which is the bane in Clif's nighttime routine because she like to layer our blankets in this order: his, mine, his, mine.  Clif is then required to sort them out before going to bed.  I think it is nice, so no complaints from me!

Another view of the master. You see the "dresser" I requested.  There is a little hallway coming into the room.  To the right is all closets, to the left in the master bath. Nothing to fancy.  We are not allowed to put any kinds of holes in the walls, do I just prefer to leave them blank.

Master Bathroom

I very much like the bathroom.  The tub is so nice and I can't help but soaking in it.  There is also the Japanese toilet complete with bidee, towel warmer (I have yet to use), vanity, and shower.  Along with a venting system you are also able to set a timer and have warm air, which is great for getting out of the shower and not getting chilly!

Guest Bathroom

No fancy toilet or tub, just a large shower.

Guest Bedroom

We mostly use this room for storage.  If you choose to come visit I may be willing to purchase a mattress pad so you do not have to sleep on a cement block.  I will try my best to find a more Western mattress pad, as the Chinese definition is much different than we American's are used to.

To end the tour we have the nursery where baby Gerke will soon be rocked to sleep.

We purchased the the crib and dresser before we left from the US.  I wasn't exactly sure what I would find here and to what safety standards it would be held to.  The glider is a gift from my parents and is quite comfy.

Just a view of the other side of the room. The rug was a flea market purchase.

That pretty much wraps up the tour! I really enjoy the compound and the apartment is quite nice.  It is a cozy little place to come back too when you need a break from the world outside!

A Glossary of Our Life in China

Below are just a few words or phrases that have become part of my vocabulary while here.  Some of them are real words or phrases, while others are just ones I hear frequently from other expats or Clif and I have found ourselves using. 

Ayi: Hired helped who may do the following tasks: clean, babysit, run errands, and cook.  Some people have Ayis 5-6 days a week all day.  These particular Ayis do it all.
Blue Sky Days: Literally what is says. I have never seen a blue sky day like back in the US, but there are days when the blue sky and a few fluffy clouds can be spotted.   
China Junk: The 4-5 spam texts I get every day. 
China Life: Reference to how day to day tasks are different or made more complicated here.  As an example I have previously posted, when I try to communicate with people who do not speak English.  They speak to me in Chinese, I speak to them in English, neither of us have a clue as to what the other wants and it ends with a stare off.
Have a "China day" or "China moment": A China day is a bad day. When nothing goes right and everything is a frustrating battle to accomplish seemingly simple tasks due to differences in culture.
Kan-Kan: The phrase you use to let venders know you are just looking, so they will stop trying to sell you things. Note: I have no idea if I spelled this correctly.
Pulled a Wang: Not what it sounds like, this is a daring driving move our driver (Mr. Wang) has perfected. He's a professional and pretty good at his job.
Saving Face: The common act of telling little white lies in order to avoid the fact that you don't actually know the answer and/or understand.  
Smells like China: This originally referred to any place with a distinct smell of sewage. It has evolved to be a good description of any place that smells bad.
Split Pants: Many Chinese toddlers and babies do not wear diapers.  Instead, their pants are split from front to back with just a bare bottom visible.  This allows them to go the bathroom anytime and anywhere they choose.  ANYWHERE. I am suspicious of every puddle I see. 
Tai Tai: It has multiple meanings. Most simply: a married women.  To others it means a wealthy married women who has time to sleep late, lunch with the ladies, and spend her husband's money.
They're Honey Badgers: in reference to the manner in which many people, at times, behave. This may make sense to only those who have seen the honey badger video.
Westerners' Price: The amount of money you are asked to pay for items or services merely because you are a Westerner. This is where negotiation skills come in handy, I am slowly developing mine.  I am becoming better at just walking away because one of two things will happen...1--You can probably find the item somewhere else and try again or 2--They will come after you suddenly willing to accept your offer.

A Picture of Wang, and Video of His Work

Meet Mr. Wang, his name rhymes with "long."

Mr. Wang is our driver and I snuck a picture for you to see. He's a really good driver; he is not too heavy on the horn, has a superhuman understanding of exactly how much space is needed to pass a car, and isn't afraid to put the hammer down when presented with open road.  Here's a brief sample of his handy work.








Someday I'll remember to pull out the camera when things get real hairy...so far I've been too busy contemplating the penalty for a dent on the company's car.